Wild! In search of the wild horses of Assateague Island
ASSATEAGUE ISLAND - AUGUST 2022
Imagine hearing a whinny carrying across the early morning breeze, just as you begin to wake up. You unzip the fly of your tent, step out onto the sand, and scan the length of the beach for the source of that whinny. Welcome to camping on Assateague Island!
For years, I'd dreamed of this exact scenario - waking up to a herd of wild horses wandering along the beach in front of my tent - and finally, in August 2022, I created the opportunity to live out my dreams. To be honest, it wasn't a total home run in terms of fulfilling my dreams, wild horses being as they are, don't exactly materialize right where you most secretly desire them to be. It was, however, a unique experience to wake up on the sand to the sound of a herd of wild horses nearby.
While most of the campers were still asleep, or at least just slowly, and groggily emerging from their tents, I'd already grabbed my camera and headed out across the dunes in search of the source of that early morning whinny.
The islands wild horses are its most iconic residents, and to be honest, the main reason I was visiting, but they’re just the tip of the iceberg. The island has miles of pristine (for the US) beaches and offers opportunities for all visitors, whether you want to actively explore, or relax with your feet in the sand.
Here are some highlights of my overnight stay on Assateague Island...
Spectacular Sunrises & Sunsets
Waking up early to be one of the very few people on the beach, the only sound being the gentle lapping of the waves against the shore was magical. Walking the picturesque stretch of beach, basking in the serenity of the moment, as the sun rises, painting the sky in hues of pink and orange. This was a moment of solitude to be grateful for.
Wild Horse Viewing
The wild horses of Assateague Island are a beloved and iconic symbol of the barrier islands of coastal Maryland and Virginia. There are many theories pertaining to how these horses came to live on the Islands, most likely, they are descendants of domesticated horses brought to the island by early settlers. The horses of Assateague are now protected by the National Park Service and seem to thrive amongst the saltwater marshes, sandy beaches, and barren dunes.
The horses roam freely on Assateague Island, so there's no guarantee that you'll see them. I seemed to get lucky, and saw my first horse as I was in the queue to enter the park, and from then onwards, I was fortunate to see a couple of bands of horses around the beach, campgrounds, and along one of the trails.
Driving slowly throughout the park is a must, as you never know when you're going to round a corner and meet with some horses crossing the road, or grazing along the verge.
Walking Trails
The Assateague Island National Seashore offers three trails Life of the Marsh, Life of the Forest & Life of the Dunes Trail. An easy stroll along any one of these trails reveals the diversity of the island, the magnificence of the scenery, and the captivating wildlife that calls the island home. If you're lucky, like me, you might even share the trails with the wild horses that roam freely on the island.
Wildlife Discovery Tour
Paddling bayside, through the calm waters of Sinepuxent Bay offers the opportunity to experience a different view of the park's coastlines and marshes. You'll spot a variety of wildlife (you may even see wild horses), and you'll definitely experience a deep connection to the natural wonders around you. The calm and clear waters of Assateague make it easy to enjoy the scenery, relax, and have fun while paddling the shoreline. It's possible to either launch your own kayak, rent a kayak and paddle solo, or tour with a guide from Assateague Outfitters.
Camping on Assateague Island
Camping on the beach on Assateague Island is a memorable experience - personally, I'm not sure I'd do it again, but it's a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The rustic campsites offer stunning coastal views, fresh ocean air, and the chance to witness the wild horses roaming free through the dunes and along the shore if you're lucky. And if nothing else, listening to the sound of waves crashing upon the shore was the perfect way to be lulled to sleep.
Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge
In an effort to see a few more horses, I took the 1-hour drive down to Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge. Located on the Virginia end of Assateague Island, the refuge is known for its pristine beaches, wild ponies, and is a stopover for many migratory birds. The island of Chincoteague itself is a little more of a resort town, and is home to charming shops, restaurants, and museums, showcasing the island's history and culture.
In contrast to the ponies of Assateague Island National Seashore which are managed by the NPS, the Chincoteague Ponies are managed by the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company. Two herds of Chincoteague ponies are fenced into large open spaces on the Virginia side of Assateague Island. There's no guarantee you'll see them. The southern herd is sometimes visible from the road leading to the beach. The northern herd is best seen on a refuge bus tour.
I was able to photograph some ponies from the road, and then decided to hike the Woodland Trail to the Pony Overlook in the hope of seeing and photographing the ponies up close. This is not a trail I would recommend hiking in the summer - the mosquitos, or maybe they were horseflies along the trail were brutal. I've hiked on Chincoteague previously, so maybe just don't hike there during the summer!
Have you spent time on Assateague Island? Where else would you visit for hiking or scenic views in the area? I'll definitely return to see the ponies again - bucket list moment would be seeing the annual Pony Swim on Chincoteague. Let me know what you think!